Hash: Homemade Ice Extraction Method by Higher Logic | April 22, 2004 | Marijuana.com Most of you are familiar with this method of making hash, and the process is identical to products like the Bubblebag and Ice-O-Lator, except without the hefty price tag. There are also some different things I do, like using distilled water and siphoning the water instead of draining it at the end. To begin, there are some tools we are going to need. Container The first thing you will need is a container to hold the ice, water, and cannabis. The size of the container will vary depending on how much cannabis you want to use. Some ideas for containers would be a Tupperware container, Mason jar, or the gallon plastic buckets you can find at most hardware stores. I used a Tupperware container that had some cookies in it. Try to find a thing around your house, the point of this is to save money. Mixing Tool The second thing you will need is a long spoon or and electric mixer. I used an electric mixer because I like to agitate the solution for a good 30 minutes and it just happened to be in my kitchen, as it should be in most. Water & Ice You will need a fair amount of ice and some cold water. I usually stick with a 2:1 ratio when it comes to water and ice, just remember the colder the water, the better. I also use filtered water (or distilled water) instead of tap water (or drinking water). I am not sure if there is any reason for this except for the fact that distilled water has no impurities. Cannabis The amount you use relates directly to how much final product you want. It is safe to assume that 7 grams of cannabis will produce 1 gram of hash. If you are only using 7 grams of cannabis, a Mason jar will work just fine. I usually start with 112 grams of cannabis, so the big containers work the best for this. You will need to put your cannabis in the freezer at least 24 hours before you attempt to make hash, since the cold temperature allows the resins to break off easily from the plant matter. You could skip this step, but I highly recommend you do not. Filter When you buy products specifically designed for making hash, the filters are marked by their size, which can be in microns or lines per inch (LPI). Since most stores will not carry such filters, you can use some alternatives. I use two different filters when making hash, one has fairly large holes in it to allow everything but the plant matter and ice to fall through, and the other removes tiny particles and sediment. For the larger filter, a leaf strainer works really well. You can find these at any pool supplies store and the price will not be more than $10. They make two different kinds of leaf strainers, the one that goes on the end of the poles, and the ones that are a bag. I use the bag strainer since I can put it inside my container. This helps because I do not have to transfer the water to another container and can just lift out the plant matter and ice in one scoop. The second filter needs to be much smaller, and for this silk screen works the best. You could use a window screen, but the hole size is not much different from the leaf strainer, so I use silk screen which you can find for under $20 at any art supplies store. Silk screen is normally used for silk screen printing on t-shirts, so it is ideal for making hash since it has the smallest hole size without looking in a specialty store or paying a lot for something else. A bag strainer: A silk screen filter with wooden frame: Directions 1. The first thing you need to do is grind the cannabis up. Remove your bud from the freezer and grind it up the best you can. Scissors work fine for this process, as does a handheld grinder, but for large amounts a coffee grinder works the best. 45 grams of ground up cannabis: 2. If you have a bag filter, put it inside your container. If your filter will not sit inside your container, that is fine too. Fill the container with cold water, and then add the bud you just ground up. Next cover the bud with ice and let the mixture sit for 15 minutes. I usually put the water in first, followed by the bud: Then I add the ice on top: 3. With your long spoon or electric mixer, begin to agitate the mixture for 15-30 minutes. The longer the better I always say, so I always do this process for 30 minutes. If you notice foam starting to accumulate on the top have no fear, this is supposed to happen as contaminates rise to the top. The foam on top is nothing to worry about: 4. After mixing, put the container in your refrigerator or a cool place for 30 minutes. This allows the mixture to settle and the resin glands to fall to the bottom. After 30 minutes is up, you can pull your bag strainer out or pour the entire mixture through the strainer into another bucket (this is why a bag strainer is ideal, you do not need another bucket). Inside the strainer should be nothing but ice, stems, and plant matter. Squeeze this as best you can and discard the plant matter. I usually repeat steps 2-3 with the strained plant matter just so I get all the resin glands out. I highly recommend doing this step again, but it is not necessary. After mixing for 30 minutes, let it rest in a cool place: 5. You should now have a bucket full of green water. You can strain this further using the silk screen, or leave it as is. I recommend using the silk screen because it removes tiny particles that will lessen the purity, taste, and color of the final product. You can skip this step if you are only using one filter. Take the green water and pour it through the silk screen. The screen should catch only a tiny bit of plant matter, but it helps. You should have a container with a green liquid left: 6. Since you just strained the material, you will need to let the mixture sit for 15-30 minutes so everything can separate. Once it has settled, there are two things you can do: one is to slowly pour the water out of the container leaving the resin glands at the bottom, and the other is siphon out the water. I highly recommend you siphon the water out because it causes less disruption, which will keep the resin glands on the bottom instead of mixed in with the water. Here is what you do to siphon the water out: you can buy a plastic tube (with a hole size about the same as a straw, because a bigger hole will cause the water to rush through very fast) or simply use a straw. I use a straw because it is one less thing I have to buy. Your bucket should be high up, like on a table, and you should place another bucket on the ground. Put your plastic tube (or straw) in the green water and the end of the tube should be aimed at the bucket on the ground. Gently suck the end of the tube and water should start to come out, gravity will do the rest. When the water in the resin gland bucket starts to get around one inch, stop everything. Take the bucket and tilt it at a 45 degree angle and let it sit for a couple of minutes. This allows everything to settle again. With the bucket still angled, you can actually just pour the solution out very slowly and you will be left with nothing but resin glands. I pour it out onto the silk screen again because the water will go through but the resin glands will not. Another thing I do is let the water I just siphoned out sit for 30 minutes and repeat the process again. I find that there is some resin glands that were mixed into the water and I do not like to waste anything. The water is getting low enough now: 7. Scoop the resin glands out of the bottom of the bucket and place it on a piece of plastic (a plastic bag works fine for this). Let this dry for at least 12 hours, or you can pat the substance down with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. Do not worry about the gooey substance being stuck to the paper towel because it will not happen. Once the product has dried, (I prefer to wait 3 days instead of 12 hours) you can begin to combine it into a ball or block. The heat from your hand will make it more pliable and help it stick together. This is what it looks like before it dries: Overall, this technique works very well, and it only costs around $10-30 depending on what you have to buy. It sure beats paying $150-450 for other products that do the same thing. I typically use mid-grades because a quarter-pound is not too expensive. The color ranges from a blonde-brown color to a dark green color. Everyone who tries the hash out loves it, and the high is incredible. One or two hits is enough to keep me high for a good 2 hours, and even a small amount like .1 gram is enough for 3 heads to get a couple hits each. Updated Note (November 20, 2004): Forget the silk screen filter, check out this site, which has ten filters of varying micron sizes for only $60, and a seven bag set for only $30. They fit over standard 5 gallon bags as well.